Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion, Maria Mackinney-Valentin
Автор: , Eicher Joanne B. Название: Fashioning the Victorians: A Critical Sourcebook ISBN: 135002340X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350023406 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 4434.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Offering a unique anthology of primary texts, this sourcebook opens a window on the writing that shaped and mirrored Victorian fashion, taking us from corsets to crinolines, dandies to decadent 'New Women'. A user-friendly collection that provides a solid grounding in the fashion history of the nineteenth century, it brings together for the first time sources that trace the evolution of dress and the social, cultural and political discourses that influenced it.
Featuring seminal writings by authors and commentators such as Oscar Wilde, Thorstein Veblen and Sarah Stickney Ellis, plus satirical cartoons, illustrations and fashion plates from key sources such as Punch magazine, it combines primary texts and illustrations with accessible explanatory notes to offer a wide-ranging overview of the period for both students and researchers. Each section opens with an introduction that examines the major trends in Victorian clothing - and the material, economic, scientific and cultural forces driving those trends - situating the texts in the pressing social anxieties and pleasures of the time. Exploring both menswear and womenswear, and key topics such as corsetry, dress reform and mourning, Mitchell extends her analysis into interdisciplinary fields including gender studies and literature, and guides the reader with a timeline, glossary and further readings.
Автор: Heike Jenss Название: Fashioning Memory: Vintage Style and Youth Culture ISBN: 1350024368 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350024366 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 4117.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: The valuing of old clothes as "vintage+? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers.
Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties, +? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers.
Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.
Автор: Julia Petrov, Gudrun D. Whitehead Название: Fashioning Horror: Dressing to Kill on Screen and in Literature ISBN: 1350133272 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350133273 Издательство: Holtzbrink(MPS)/MPS Рейтинг: Цена: 5384.00 р. Наличие на складе: Ожидается поступление.
Описание:
From Jack the Ripper to Frankenstein, Halloween customs to Alexander McQueen collections, Fashioning Horror examines how terror is fashioned visually, symbolically, and materially through fashion and costume, in literature, film, and real life.
With a series of case studies that range from sensationalist cinema and Slasher films to true crime and nineteenth-century literature, the volume investigates the central importance of clothing to the horror genre, and broadens our understanding of both material and popular culture. Arguing that dress is fundamental to our understanding of character and setting within horror, the chapters also reveal how the grotesque and horrific is at the center of fashion itself, with its potential for instability, disguise, and carnivalesque subversion.
Packed with original research, and bringing together a range of international scholars, the book is the first to thoroughly examine the aesthetics of terror and the role of fashion in the construction of horror.
Автор: Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Guy D. Stiebel Название: Dress and Ideology: Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present ISBN: 1472525493 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781472525499 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 19008.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Dress and fashion are powerful visual means of communicating ideology, whether political, social or religious. From the communist values of equality, simplicity and solidarity exemplified in the Mao suit to the myriad of fashion protests of feminists such as French revolutionary women's demand to wear trousers, dress can symbolize ideological orthodoxy as well as revolt.
With contributions from a wide range of international scholars, this book presents the first scholarly analysis of dress and ideology through accessible case studies. Chapters are organized thematically and explore dress in relation to topics including nation, identity, religion, politics and utopias, across an impressive chronological reach from antiquity to the present day.
Dress & Ideology will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, history, sociology, cultural studies, politics and gender studies.
Автор: Rachel Lifter Название: Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender ISBN: 1350126322 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350126329 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 15048.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
When indie rocker Pete Doherty began a relationship with supermodel Kate Moss in 2005, the British indie music scene, which first appeared in the 1980s, became mainstream. Its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-had reached the height of popular fashion.
With in-depth research into the lucrative transformation of indie style first into high concept menswear and later into the womenswear phenomenon known as "festival fashion," Fashioning Indie provides a unique account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system.
Rachel Lifter argues that, amidst these changes, the ideal figure of indie also transformed: from a slender, white, guitar-playing man into the festival fashionista. Celebrated for her "individual style," the festival fashionista also proved to be an ideal subject of 21st-century popular fashion, wherein the lines between alternative style and mainstream fashion cultures blurred.
As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, Fashioning Indie provides essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.
Автор: Mitchell, Rebecca (university Of Birmingham, Uk) Название: Fashioning the victorians ISBN: 1350023396 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350023390 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 15048.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: Offering a unique anthology of primary texts, this sourcebook opens a window on the writing that shaped and mirrored Victorian fashion, taking us from corsets to crinolines, dandies to decadent 'New Women'. A user-friendly collection that provides a solid grounding in the fashion history of the nineteenth century, it brings together for the first time sources that trace the evolution of dress and the social, cultural and political discourses that influenced it.
Featuring seminal writings by authors and commentators such as Oscar Wilde, Thorstein Veblen and Sarah Stickney Ellis, plus satirical cartoons, illustrations and fashion plates from key sources such as Punch magazine, it combines primary texts and illustrations with accessible explanatory notes to offer a wide-ranging overview of the period for both students and researchers.
Each section opens with an introduction that examines the major trends in Victorian clothing - and the material, economic, scientific and cultural forces driving those trends - situating the texts in the pressing social anxieties and pleasures of the time. Exploring both menswear and womenswear, and key topics such as corsetry, dress reform and mourning, Mitchell extends her analysis into interdisciplinary fields including gender studies and literature, and guides the reader with a timeline, glossary and further readings.
Автор: Vaclavik Kiera Название: Fashioning Alice ISBN: 1474290388 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781474290388 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 17424.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: 150 years after Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland was first published, Lewis Carroll’s eponymous heroine has become one of the most familiar figures in the cultural landscape. The enduringly iconic figure of the Victorian child, Alice has inspired countless fashion designers, illustrators and stylists. The ‘Alice Look’ has been embraced across the world, by young and old alike, and by both the feted and the forgotten. Fashioning Alice is the first book to chart the emergence of Alice as a style icon. Kiera Vaclavik traces the evolution of Alice’s visual identity in the nineteenth century and explores the myriad ways in which she was dressed – on the page, on the stage, and in the home. The book also draws on historical sources to examine amateur performance and play not just in the UK but in the USA, Japan and Australia. Illustrated throughout, Fashioning Alice is a ground-breaking exploration of Alice’s visual career that offers a compelling case study of the intersections between fashion and fiction.
Описание: This work explores the history of costume in British film, from the 1920s to the 1990s. It shows how period costume romances, such as "Caravan", featured sensual designs which caused a scandal in postwar society, and it explains the cultural implications of this scandal.
Автор: Kutesko Elizabeth Название: Fashioning Brazil ISBN: 135002659X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350026599 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 19008.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание:
Examining the dynamics between subject, photographer and viewer, Fashioning Brazil analyses how Brazilians have appropriated and reinterpreted clothing influences from local and global cultures. Exploring the various ways in which Brazil has been fashioned by the pioneering scientific and educational magazine, National Geographic, the book encourages us to look beyond simplistic representations of exotic difference. Instead, it brings to light an extensive history of self-fashioning within Brazil, which has emerged through cross-cultural contact, slavery, and immigration.
Providing an in-depth examination of Brazilian dress and fashion practices as represented by the quasi-ethnographic gaze of National Geographic and National Geographic Brazil (the Portuguese language edition of the magazine, established in 2000), the book unpacks a series of case studies. Taking us from body paint to Lycra, via loincloths and bikinis, Kutesko frames her analysis within the historical, cultural, and political context of Latin American interactions with the United States. Exploring how dress can be used to manipulate identity and disrupt expectations, Fashioning Brazil examines readers' sensory engagements with an iconic magazine, and sheds new light on key debates concerning global dress and fashion.
Описание: Youth and the Politics of the Present includes a wide range of empirical studies about young adults in different European contexts focusing on how they cope with the main transformations caused by the processes of globalization.
Автор: Maria Mackinney-Valentin Название: Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion ISBN: 1474249108 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781474249102 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 20592.00 р. Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis’ seminal concept of ‘identity ambivalence’ in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of ‘status ambivalence’, in which fashioning one’s own identity has become increasingly complicated.
From artist to curator, couturier to fashion blogger, 'creative' professional identities can be viewed as social practices, enacted, performed and negotiated through the media, the public, and industry. Fashioning Professionals addresses what it means to be a creative professional, historically and in the digital age, as new ways of working and doing business have given rise to new professional identities.
Bringing together critical reflections from international researchers, the book spans fashion, design, art, architecture, and advertising. It examines both traditional and emergent roles in creative industries, from advertising executives and surrealist artists to mannequin designers, pop stylists, bloggers, makers and design curators. The book reveals how professional identities are continually in a state of fashioning, through style, taste, gender and cultural representation, highlighting moments of friction and flux in the creative labour of the global economy. Interweaving critical perspectives from fashion and design history with sociology and cultural theory, Fashioning Professionals addresses a burgeoning area of research as we enter new terrain in fashion and the creative industries.
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