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Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender, Rachel Lifter


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Автор: Rachel Lifter
Название:  Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender
ISBN: 9781350126329
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
Классификация:


ISBN-10: 1350126322
Обложка/Формат: Hardback
Страницы: 224
Вес: 0.50 кг.
Дата издания: 31.10.2019
Серия: Dress cultures
Язык: English
Иллюстрации: 20 bw illus
Размер: 142 x 224 x 15
Читательская аудитория: Tertiary education (us: college)
Ключевые слова: Fashion & beauty industries,Popular culture,Fashion & society,21st century history: from c 2000 -,Punk, New Wave & Indie, DESIGN / Fashion,BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Industries / Fashion & Textile Industry,SOCIAL SCIENCE / Gender Studies,SOCIAL SCIENCE / Pop
Подзаголовок: Popular fashion, music and gender
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Поставляется из: Англии
Описание:

When indie rocker Pete Doherty began a relationship with supermodel Kate Moss in 2005, the British indie music scene, which first appeared in the 1980s, became mainstream. Its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-had reached the height of popular fashion.

With in-depth research into the lucrative transformation of indie style first into high concept menswear and later into the womenswear phenomenon known as festival fashion, Fashioning Indie provides a unique account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system.

Rachel Lifter argues that, amidst these changes, the ideal figure of indie also transformed: from a slender, white, guitar-playing man into the festival fashionista. Celebrated for her individual style, the festival fashionista also proved to be an ideal subject of 21st-century popular fashion, wherein the lines between alternative style and mainstream fashion cultures blurred.

As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, Fashioning Indie provides essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.




Fashioning Memory: Vintage Style and Youth Culture

Автор: Heike Jenss
Название: Fashioning Memory: Vintage Style and Youth Culture
ISBN: 1350024368 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350024366
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 4117.00 р.
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Описание: The valuing of old clothes as "vintage+? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers.

Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties, +? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers.

Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.

Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion

Автор: Maria Mackinney-Valentin
Название: Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion
ISBN: 1350100668 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350100664
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 5542.00 р.
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Описание: We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis’ seminal concept of ‘identity ambivalence’ in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of ‘status ambivalence’, in which fashioning one’s own identity has become increasingly complicated.

Technology, Self-Fashioning and Politeness in Eighteenth-Century Britain

Автор: A. Withey
Название: Technology, Self-Fashioning and Politeness in Eighteenth-Century Britain
ISBN: 1137467479 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781137467478
Издательство: Springer
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Цена: 7965.00 р.
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Описание: The second half of the eighteenth century brought important changes in attitudes towards shaping the body. But the introduction of a new type of steel - cast steel - around 1750, offered new material possibilities for shaping the body.

Fashioning the Nation: Costume and Identity in British Cinema

Название: Fashioning the Nation: Costume and Identity in British Cinema
ISBN: 085170574X ISBN-13(EAN): 9780851705743
Издательство: Springer
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Цена: 4890.00 р.
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Описание: This work explores the history of costume in British film, from the 1920s to the 1990s. It shows how period costume romances, such as "Caravan", featured sensual designs which caused a scandal in postwar society, and it explains the cultural implications of this scandal.

Kit: Fashioning the Sporting Body

Автор: Williams Jean
Название: Kit: Fashioning the Sporting Body
ISBN: 1138922056 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781138922051
Издательство: Taylor&Francis
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Цена: 22202.00 р.
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Описание: This book gives an introductory overview of the historical and contemporary issues as it does for the growing number of sport marketing and sports studies courses concerned with dress, costume history and branding. This book was published as a special issue of Sport in History.

Fashioning Fat: Inside Plus-Size Modeling

Автор: Czerniawski Amanda M.
Название: Fashioning Fat: Inside Plus-Size Modeling
ISBN: 0814789188 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780814789186
Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan)
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Цена: 4514.00 р.
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Описание:

For two and a half years, Amanda Czerniawski was a
sociologist turned plus-size model. Journeying into a world where, as a size
10, she was not considered an average body type, but rather, for the fashion
industry, “plus-sized,” Czerniawski studied the standards of work and image
production in the plus-sized model industry.
Fashioning Fat takes us through a model’s day-to-day activities,
first at open calls at modeling agencies and then through the fashion shows and
photo shoots. Czerniawski also interviewed 35 plus-size models about their
lives in the world of fashion, bringing to life the strange contradictions of
being an object of non-idealized beauty.



Fashioning Fat shows
us that the mission of many of these models is to challenge our standards of
beauty that privilege the thin body; they show us that fat can be sexy. Many plus-size
models do often succeed in overcoming years of self-loathing and shame over
their bodies, yet, as Czerniawski shows, these women are not the ones in charge
of beauty’s construction or dissemination. At the corporate level, the fashion
industry perpetuates their objectification. Plus-size models must conform to an
image created by fashion’s tastemakers, as their bodies must fit within
narrowly defined parameters of size and shape—an experience not too different
from that of straight-sized models. Ultimately, plus-size models find that they
are still molding their bodies to fit an image instead of molding an image of
beauty to fit their bodies. A much-needed behind-the-scenes look at this
growing industry, Fashioning Fat is a
fascinating, unique, and important contribution to our understanding of beauty.

Fashioning Diaspora: Beauty, Femininity, and South Asian American Culture

Автор: Reddy Vanita
Название: Fashioning Diaspora: Beauty, Femininity, and South Asian American Culture
ISBN: 143991155X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781439911556
Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan)
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Цена: 4257.00 р.
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Описание:

In her insightful study, Fashioning Diaspora, Vanita Reddy carefully maps how transnational itineraries of Indian beauty and fashion shape South Asian American cultural identities and racialized belonging from the 1990s to the late-2000s. She observes how diasporic subjects engage with and respond to various encounters with Indian beauty and fashion.
 
One of the first books to consider beauty and fashion as a point of entry into an examination of South Asian diasporic public cultures, Fashioning Diaspora examines a range of literature, visual art, and live performance. Through careful analyses of novels by Bharati Mukherjee and Jhumpa Lahiri, young adult literature, performance art by Shailja Patel, as well as objects of popular culture including an Indian American fashion doll, and beauty and adornment practices, Reddy challenges fashion and beauty as a set of dematerialized, overly commodified cultural practices. She argues instead that beauty and fashion structure South Asian Americans’ uneven access to social mobility, capital, and citizenship, and demonstrates their varying capacities to produce social attachments across national, class, racial, gender, and generational divides.  
Fashioning Alice

Автор: Vaclavik Kiera
Название: Fashioning Alice
ISBN: 1474290388 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781474290388
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 17424.00 р.
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Описание: 150 years after Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland was first published, Lewis Carroll’s eponymous heroine has become one of the most familiar figures in the cultural landscape. The enduringly iconic figure of the Victorian child, Alice has inspired countless fashion designers, illustrators and stylists. The ‘Alice Look’ has been embraced across the world, by young and old alike, and by both the feted and the forgotten. Fashioning Alice is the first book to chart the emergence of Alice as a style icon. Kiera Vaclavik traces the evolution of Alice’s visual identity in the nineteenth century and explores the myriad ways in which she was dressed – on the page, on the stage, and in the home. The book also draws on historical sources to examine amateur performance and play not just in the UK but in the USA, Japan and Australia. Illustrated throughout, Fashioning Alice is a ground-breaking exploration of Alice’s visual career that offers a compelling case study of the intersections between fashion and fiction.

Fashioning Professionals: Identity and Representation at Work in the Creative Industries

Автор: Leah Armstrong, Felice McDowell
Название: Fashioning Professionals: Identity and Representation at Work in the Creative Industries
ISBN: 1350129275 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350129276
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 5384.00 р.
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Описание:

From artist to curator, couturier to fashion blogger, 'creative' professional identities can be viewed as social practices, enacted, performed and negotiated through the media, the public, and industry. Fashioning Professionals addresses what it means to be a creative professional, historically and in the digital age, as new ways of working and doing business have given rise to new professional identities.

Bringing together critical reflections from international researchers, the book spans fashion, design, art, architecture, and advertising. It examines both traditional and emergent roles in creative industries, from advertising executives and surrealist artists to mannequin designers, pop stylists, bloggers, makers and design curators. The book reveals how professional identities are continually in a state of fashioning, through style, taste, gender and cultural representation, highlighting moments of friction and flux in the creative labour of the global economy.
Interweaving critical perspectives from fashion and design history with sociology and cultural theory, Fashioning Professionals addresses a burgeoning area of research as we enter new terrain in fashion and the creative industries.

Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion

Автор: Maria Mackinney-Valentin
Название: Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion
ISBN: 1474249108 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781474249102
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 20592.00 р.
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Описание: We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis’ seminal concept of ‘identity ambivalence’ in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of ‘status ambivalence’, in which fashioning one’s own identity has become increasingly complicated.

Fashioning Brazil

Автор: Kutesko Elizabeth
Название: Fashioning Brazil
ISBN: 135002659X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350026599
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 19008.00 р.
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Описание:

Examining the dynamics between subject, photographer and viewer, Fashioning Brazil analyses how Brazilians have appropriated and reinterpreted clothing influences from local and global cultures. Exploring the various ways in which Brazil has been fashioned by the pioneering scientific and educational magazine, National Geographic, the book encourages us to look beyond simplistic representations of exotic difference. Instead, it brings to light an extensive history of self-fashioning within Brazil, which has emerged through cross-cultural contact, slavery, and immigration.

Providing an in-depth examination of Brazilian dress and fashion practices as represented by the quasi-ethnographic gaze of National Geographic and National Geographic Brazil (the Portuguese language edition of the magazine, established in 2000), the book unpacks a series of case studies. Taking us from body paint to Lycra, via loincloths and bikinis, Kutesko frames her analysis within the historical, cultural, and political context of Latin American interactions with the United States.

Exploring how dress can be used to manipulate identity and disrupt expectations, Fashioning Brazil examines readers' sensory engagements with an iconic magazine, and sheds new light on key debates concerning global dress and fashion.


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