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When Broadway Was the Runway: Theater, Fashion, and American Culture, Marlis Schweitzer


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Автор: Marlis Schweitzer
Название:  When Broadway Was the Runway: Theater, Fashion, and American Culture
ISBN: 9780812221633
Издательство: Wiley EDC
Классификация:
ISBN-10: 081222163X
Обложка/Формат: Paperback
Страницы: 320
Вес: 0.52 кг.
Дата издания: 2011-04-08
Язык: English
Иллюстрации: 47 illus.
Размер: 229 x 154 x 24
Читательская аудитория: Tertiary education (us: college)
Основная тема: History of the Americas, HISTORY / United States / 20th Century
Подзаголовок: Theater, fashion, and american culture
Ссылка на Издательство: Link
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Поставляется из: Англии
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Selected by Choice magazine as an Outstanding Academic Title
When Broadway Was the Runway explores the central and largely unacknowledged role of commercial Broadway theater in the birth of modern American fashion and consumer culture. Long before Hollywoods red carpet spectacles, Broadway theater introduced American women to the latest styles. At the beginning of the twentieth century, theater impresarios captured the imagination of their largely female patrons by transforming the stage into a glorious site of consumer spectacle.
Theater historian Marlis Schweitzer examines how these impresarios presented the dresses actresses wore onstage, as well as the jewelry and hairstyles they chose, as commodities that were available for purchase in nearby department stores and salons. The Merry Widow Hat, designed for the hit operetta of the same name, sparked an international craze, and the dancer Irene Castle became a fashion celebrity when she anticipated the flapper look of the 1920s by nearly a decade. Not only were the latest styles onstage, but advertisements appeared throughout theaters, in programs, and on the curtains, while magazines such as Vogue vied for the rights to publish theatrical costume sketches and Harpers Bazaar enticed readers with photo spreads of actresses in couture. This combination of spectatorship and consumption was a crucial step in the formation of a mass market for consumer goods and the rise of the cult of celebrity.
Through historical analysis and dozens of early photographs and illustrations, Schweitzer aims a spotlight at the cultural and economic convergence of the theater and fashion industries in the United States.


Дополнительное описание:

Introduction
Chapter 1. The Octopus and the Matinee Girl
Chapter 2. The "Department Store Theater" and the Gendering of Consumption
Chapter 3. "The Cult of Clothes" and the Performance of Class
Chapter 4. Fashioning the Modern Woman




Costume in performance

Автор: Barbieri, Donatella (victoria And Albert Museum And London College Of Fashion, Uk)
Название: Costume in performance
ISBN: 1350106380 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350106383
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 3960.00 р.
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Описание: Winner of Best Performance Design and Scenography Publication Award, Prague Quadrennial 2019This beautifully illustrated book conveys the centrality of costume to live performance. Finding associations between contemporary practices and historical manifestations, costume is explored in six thematic chapters, examining the transformative ritual of costuming; choruses as reflective of society; the grotesque, transgressive costume; the female sublime as emancipation; costume as sculptural art in motion; and the here-and-now as history. Viewing the material costume as a crucial aspect in the preparation, presentation and reception of live performance, the book brings together costumed performances through history. These range from ancient Greece to modern experimental productions, from medieval theatre to modernist dance, from the ‘fashion plays’ to contemporary Shakespeare, marking developments in both culture and performance. Revealing the relationship between dress, the body and human existence, and acknowledging a global as well as an Anglo and Eurocentric perspective, this book shows costume’s ability to cross both geographical and disciplinary borders. Through it, we come to question the extent to which the material costume actually co-authors the performance itself, speaking of embodied histories, states of being and never-before imagined futures, which come to life in the temporary space of the performance. With a contribution by Melissa Trimingham, University of Kent, UK

The Great White Way: Race and the Broadway Musical

Автор: Warren Hoffman
Название: The Great White Way: Race and the Broadway Musical
ISBN: 1978807384 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781978807389
Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan)
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Цена: 18810.00 р.
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Описание: Broadway musicals are one of America's most beloved art forms and play to millions of people each year. But what do these shows, which are often thought to be just frothy entertainment, really have to say about our country and who we are as a nation?

Now in a new second edition, The Great White Way is the first book to reveal the racial politics, content, and subtexts that have haunted musicals for almost one hundred years from Show Boat (1927) to Hamilton (2015). This revised edition includes a new introduction and conclusion, updated chapters, as well as a brand-new chapter that looks at the blockbuster musicals The Book of Mormon and Hamilton.

Musicals mirror their time periods and reflect the political and social issues of their day. Warren Hoffman investigates the thematic content of the Broadway musical and considers how musicals work on a structural level, allowing them to simultaneously present and hide their racial agendas in plain view of their audiences. While the musical is informed by the cultural contributions of African Americans and Jewish immigrants, Hoffman argues that ultimately the history of the American musical is the history of white identity in the United States.

Presented chronologically, The Great White Way shows how perceptions of race altered over time and how musicals dealt with those changes. Hoffman focuses first on shows leading up to and comprising the Golden Age of Broadway (1927-1960s), then turns his attention to the revivals and nostalgic vehicles that defined the final quarter of the twentieth century. He offers entirely new and surprising takes on shows from the American musical canon--Show Boat (1927), Oklahoma (1943), Annie Get Your Gun (1946), The Music Man (1957), West Side Story (1957), A Chorus Line (1975), and 42nd Street (1980), among others. In addition to a new chapter on Hamilton and The Book of Mormon, this revised edition brings The Great White Way fully into the twenty-first century with an examination of jukebox musicals and the role of off-Broadway and regional theaters in the development of the American musical.

New archival research on the creators who produced and wrote these shows, including Leonard Bernstein, Jerome Robbins, Stephen Sondheim, and Edward Kleban, will have theater fans and scholars rethinking forever how they view this popular American entertainment.

From the Bowery to Broadway: New York`s Yiddish Theater

Автор: Nashon Edna, Museum of the City of New York
Название: From the Bowery to Broadway: New York`s Yiddish Theater
ISBN: 0231176708 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780231176705
Издательство: Wiley
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Цена: 8712.00 р.
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Описание:

In the early decades of the twentieth century, a vibrant theatrical culture took shape on New York City's Lower East Side. Original dramas, comedies, musicals, and vaudeville, along with sophisticated productions of Shakespeare, Ibsen, and Chekhov, were innovatively staged for crowds that rivaled the audiences on Broadway. Though these productions were in Yiddish and catered to Eastern European, Jewish audiences (the largest immigrant group in the city at the time), their artistic innovations, energetic style, and engagement with politics and the world around them came to influence all facets of the American stage.

Vividly illustrated and with essays from leading historians and critics, this book recounts the heyday of "Yiddish Broadway" and its vital contribution to American Jewish life and crossover to the broader American culture. These performances grappled with Jewish nationalism, labor relations, women's rights, religious observance, acculturation, and assimilation. They reflected a range of genres, from tear-jerkers to experimental theater. The artists who came of age in this world include Stella Adler, Eddie Cantor, Jerry Lewis, Sophie Tucker, Mel Brooks, and Joan Rivers. The story of New York's Yiddish theater is a tale of creativity and legacy and of immigrants who, in the process of becoming Americans, had an enormous impact on the country's cultural and artistic development.

Red, White, and Blue on the Runway: The 1968 White House Fashion Show and the Politics of American Style

Автор: Chrisman-Campbell Kimberly
Название: Red, White, and Blue on the Runway: The 1968 White House Fashion Show and the Politics of American Style
ISBN: 1606354329 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781606354322
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 3862.00 р.
Наличие на складе: Нет в наличии.

Описание: Using eyewitness accounts as well as carefully preserved records, artifacts, and previously unpublished images, Red, White, and Blue on the Runway re-creates the once-in-a-lifetime event and explores the reasons why the first White House fashion show was destined to be the last.

McQueen: or Lee and Beauty

Автор: James Phillips
Название: McQueen: or Lee and Beauty
ISBN: 1474264468 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781474264464
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
Цена: 1741.00 р.
Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.

Описание: You look otherworldly. Like all my girls. This will make you a queen. Like years ago and people wore clothes like weapons, like weapons against poor people, because even is you were hungry how could you raise your fist against what looked like a god? But I can make things that are weapons against day to day stuff. A girl has watched McQueen’s Mayfair house for eleven consecutive days. Tonight, she climbs down from her watching tree and breaks into his house, to steal a dress, to become someone special. He catches her, but, instead of calling the police, they embark together on a journey through London and into his heart. The play captures the fairy-story landscape of McQueen’s mind - the landscape seen in his immortal shows - where, with a dress, an urchin can become an Amazon and where beauty might just help us survive the night. McQueen is a journey into the visionary imagination and dark dream world of Alexander McQueen, fashion’s greatest contemporary artist. James Phillips's play received its world premiere at St James Theatre, London, on 12 May 2015.

Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body

Автор: Donatella Barbieri
Название: Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body
ISBN: 0857855107 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780857855107
Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic
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Цена: 3958.00 р.
Наличие на складе: Нет в наличии.

Описание: This beautifully illustrated book conveys the centrality of costume to live performance. Finding associations between contemporary practices and historical manifestations, costume is explored in six thematic chapters, examining the transformative ritual of costuming; choruses as reflective of society; the grotesque, transgressive costume; the female sublime as emancipation; costume as sculptural art in motion; and the here-and-now as history. Viewing the material costume as a crucial aspect in the preparation, presentation and reception of live performance, the book brings together costumed performances through history. These range from ancient Greece to modern experimental productions, from medieval theatre to modernist dance, from the ‘fashion plays’ to contemporary Shakespeare, marking developments in both culture and performance. Revealing the relationship between dress, the body and human existence, and acknowledging a global as well as an Anglo and Eurocentric perspective, this book shows costume’s ability to cross both geographical and disciplinary borders. Through it, we come to question the extent to which the material costume actually co-authors the performance itself, speaking of embodied histories, states of being and never-before imagined futures, which come to life in the temporary space of the performance. With a contribution by Melissa Trimingham, University of Kent, UK

Men`s Tailoring

Автор: Cottenden
Название: Men`s Tailoring
ISBN: 1138336807 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781138336803
Издательство: Taylor&Francis
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Цена: 7961.00 р.
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Описание: Men`s Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket.


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